COVID-19 Era: Author Gladys Taber’s Farmhouse, Books, Food
Updated story will be linked here (also, check the front page).
While living through a global pandemic, helps to read Gladys Taber and other authors who weathered world wars and epidemics. Still wearing a mask and social distancing, vaccinations in arms.You could send me to talk to farms for the rest of my journalistic career and I’d be content. #moo pic.twitter.com/Nbnc0FVbyO
— Kevin Gaiss (@KevinGaissTV) May 6, 2021
While life slowly unfurls in spring and while still dealing with the virus, listings will be featured on our A Resources page (formerly our events page). Farm markets, showcases of local farms, micro-enterprises, entrepreneurs, ideas, will also be featured there.
Home-cooked soups, chowders, bisques. Cold soups, hot casseroles. Seafood. Poultry.
Here is an excerpt: “…cold fried chicken in the basket for a hot August day” and a description of the ensuing picnic with accompaniments of “a tiny pot of honey and crisp potato chips and light rolls” as a group which includes the author sits by a “slow-flowing dusky river under trailing green willows”. Maybe it will inspire others into hauling out that old-fashioned picnic hamper to duplicate the outing.
Chapters include: Vegetables. Salads. Gravies and Sauces. Egg, Cheese, Tomato Dishes. Spaghetti and Macaroni. Cereals. Breads. Desserts. Canning. The latter includes how to make brandied peaches, tomato honey, pepper relish, pickled string beans, tomato catsup, jelly.
Taber quips: “In these days of powdered and liquid pectins anyone can make jelly out of anything except mashed potatoes.”
From the Meats chapter, roasts, gravy, a roasting chart, a rolled rib roast with Yorkshire pudding “crusty and brown and rich with the drippings.”
Pot roast, meat loaf, pan-broiled steak, stuffed pork chops, spare ribs, ham; dumplings for meat stews. Lamb, veal, bacon, salt pork. Tripe, tongue, heart, kidneys, sweetbreads. Stuffing recipes fill four pages. No-nonsense, practical advice for preparing poultry, too: “Cut off the head and feet. Remove the pin feathers with a knife held against your thumb or with eyebrow tweezers. Cut out the oil sac above the tail. Singe over an open flame to get rid of hairs and fuzz. Rub inside and out with a slice or lemon, or wash in cold water, wipe dry, and rub salt in the cavity.”
Variations of recipes she shares depend on the age or the bird and run the gamut from roast chicken to Southern-fried chicken roasts, chicken and dumplings; birds cooked with red wine, pot pie and fricassee – even arroz con pollo. Also roast duck and goose.
Favorite Beverages at Stillmeadow: Lemonade, an August cooler, iced tea and party punch. Iced chocolate coffee. Cold weather recipes – hot buttered rum, eggnog and skating night punch. An “ice cubes for drinks” tip that is so practical – “for iced coffee, freeze coffee in one of the ice cube trays. For iced tea, freeze tea.” She goes on to tell about adding an “unusual and interesting touch” for readers to “place a maraschino cherry or a small wisp of mint or tiny pineapple wedge to freeze in each cube that is to go in iced tea, ginger ale, or one of the cola drinks. Use your imagination.”
Candy. Easy fudge, chocolate drops, maple fondant, pralines. Molasses taffy, butterscotch, popcorn, spiced nuts.
And the final section “Let's Have A Party” includes this: “Our favorite part is broilers done in the grill ad basted with barbecue sauce (Cicely's), fresh country sweet corn in season and scalloped potatoes (they keep hot while the chicken cooks). Fresh berry pie for dessert and coffee. If corn is not in, we may have scalloped broiled tomatoes or fresh green peas.”
Vignettes from the author are sprinkled throughout the pages adding flavor and commentary, memories shared – “Of course, anything would have been delicious with the blue roll of the mountains above us and the silvery green valley below, and the smoke of our fire drifting dreamily in the still summer air.”
In “Salads” is this: “I sometimes think that there must be a good deal of rabbit in me because of the way I feel about crisp greens.”
It should be noted that the actual cookbook is so cherished and collected, it may be hard to find except via online sales and booksellers who sometimes have a waiting list for Taber collectors and devoted readers. So here are a few recipes from the book until you track down one of your very own.
Fried Tomatoes • Wash and cut in half medium-sized tomatoes, ripe, partly ripe, or green. Do not remove the skins. Season half a cup of flour or cornmeal with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/8 teaspoon pepper and dredge the pieces. Fry them, turning carefully once, in 3 tablespoons of bacon fat or cooking oil. Place the tomatoes on thin, buttered whole wheat toast on a hot platter and make the gravy. Gravy: Stir 2 tablespoons of flour into the drippings in the pan and when it is blended slowly add 1 cup of top milk or evaporated milk. Stir constantly until the gravy has boiled up and is smooth. Pour over the tomatoes, and serve at once. If the tomatoes are green they may need to be steamed a few minutes before they are done through, so just cover the pan when they are brown and cook until tender.
Note: Merriam-Webster provides this helpful definition of “top milk” as “the upper layer of milk in a container enriched by whatever cream has risen.”
Fritters • For fritters you need a deep kettle with fat over halfway to the top. Heat the fat hot enough so that a cube of bread browns without burning in 2 or 3 minutes. Beat 2 egg yolks. Add 1/3 cup water and 1/3 cup of rich milk. Beat in 1 tablespoon of lemon juice and 1 tablespoon melted butter. Sift 1 cup of flour, measure and resift with 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1 tablespoons sugar. Combine dry ad liquid ingredients. Whip 2 egg whites with 1/8 teaspoons salt added to them, and fold into the batter. Drop the fritters in the hot fat and fry slowly until delicate brown. Drain on brown paper and serve hot.
Apple Fritters • Pare, core and cut in eighths 2 medium-sized tart apples. Cut the pieces in thin slices and drop in batter. The drop by spoonfuls in the deep fat, drain on brown paper and sprinkle with powdered sugar. You may use almost any fresh fruit or drained canned fruit in the same way. Bananas are improved by being soaked first in 1/2 tablespoon of lemon juice and 3 tablespoons sherry (for four bananas). Serve with syrup, jelly or powdered sugar. Corn Fritters Follow recipe for fritters. Stir in 1 cup niblets, whole or chopped, or drain 1 cup of cream style corn instead. Serve with maple syrup and broiled bacon.
One more.
Butterscotch Icing: Combine in the top of a double boiler over boiling water 4 tablespoons butter, 1/2 cup brown sugar, 1/8 teaspoon salt, and 1/3 cup top milk. Cook and stir until smooth, Beat in confectioner's sugar, a little at a time, until the mixture has reached a good consistency to spread. Usually this requires about 2 cups of sugar. Add 1/2 teaspoon vanilla and 1/2 cup chopped nuts before spreading.
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Stillmeadow Kitchen (1947) is a book still in demand decades after its original publication. It is but one of Taber's volumes that include mouthwatering descriptions and recipes. Worthy footsteps to follow in, so to speak.
“I cooked. Sometimes I felt the kitchen was the only room in the house, and I was always in it. (There was a side effect of this, for I began to collect recipes and write cookbooks.) And I learned that in the country you never know how many will drop in and stay for supper. It may be five; it may be ten.” – Gladys Taber Pages of savory recipes are written in a conversational tone after a delicious introduction by the author.
Chapters include: Vegetables. Salads. Gravies and Sauces. Egg, Cheese, Tomato Dishes. Spaghetti and Macaroni. Cereals. Breads. Desserts. Canning. The latter includes how to make brandied peaches, tomato honey, pepper relish, pickled string beans, tomato catsup, jelly. Mmmmm.
Apple Fritters • Pare, core and cut in eighths 2 medium-sized tart apples. Cut the pieces in thin slices and drop in batter. The drop by spoonfuls in the deep fat, drain on brown paper and sprinkle with powdered sugar. You may use almost any fresh fruit or drained canned fruit in the same way. Bananas are improved by being soaked first in 1/2 tablespoon of lemon juice and 3 tablespoons sherry (for four bananas). Serve with syrup, jelly or powdered sugar. Corn Fritters Follow recipe for fritters. Stir in 1 cup niblets, whole or chopped, or drain 1 cup of cream style corn instead. Serve with maple syrup and broiled bacon.
Editor's note: Part of this story was first published in 2016 after a pilgrimage to Stillmeadow and the former farmland nearby. As humans, we may venture into space, start companies, invent and innovate, but food made with love and care remains a powerful common denominator across all time and every culture. Remember lessons of the past, integrate all into the present, look to the future. (And do take note that statins were not in use–liberal use of eggs, cream, butter, bacon. Sigh.)