“I read, I study, I examine, I listen, I think, and out of all that I try to form an idea into which I put as much common sense as I can.” – Marquis de Lafayette

A river is a water highway, transportation to destinations near and far. A way to travel by ship, large or small – or move cargo. Or both. Extraordinary habitat for a diversity of life forms, a river also attracts humans in all seasons. There is always something new to discover at the intersection of now and then.

The tidal Connecticut River, as seen from Cromwell's River Road can be viewed from a small park with benches, pathways. Remnants of pilings can be seen, and there are sweeping views of the river, upstream and down. Light reflected off waters flowing south to Long Island Sound and beyond make this area irresistible to photographers, birders.

A place once known as “Upper Houses River Port” as typed into the National Register of Historic Places Inventory nomination form stamped received April 25, 1979.

Though now scenic and mostly quiet, it was not always this way. Let's refer to the nomination form which sums up the area: “The Upper Houses River Port District consists of five streets. River Road (following closely by the Connecticut River) and Pleasant Street run north and south. Wall, School, and South Streets cross on an east-west axis, with Wall and South Streets joining to Main Street on the west. This group of streets formed the center of 18th century Cromwell (settled ca. 1651). A typical New England centralized agricultural village, Upper Houses entered a period of mercantile prosperity in the late 18th and early 19th centuries. During this period, the district was the center of town, and included stores and artisans' shops on the banks of the river. The residences of merchants, sea captains, craftsmen, and farmers constructed during this prosperous era constitute a significant number of buildings surviving today. A brownstone loading dock is located on the river just north of Wall Street; at least one group of docks and warehouses were sited on the river bank at the foot of South Street.”

Ah, nearly forgotten by most (not longtime residents nor the Cromwell Historical Society though. Decades ago, was privileged to serve as editor of an independently-owned weekly newspaper and throughly explored the town while reporting land transactions to town planning and zoning, parades, elections, graduations, history, bells, festivals, businesses, and everything in between.)

But there was one noteworthy visitor missed in all those years writing, taking photographs, reporting.

“Date: 1824-09-04 Coming from Hartford, Lafayette disembarked from the Oliver Ellsworth at the foot of South Street in Cromwell, CT.” From Consulate General of France in Boston and French historian and geographer Julien Icher research and design of The Lafayette Trail, “based on Lafayette’s Farewell Tour in 1824-25.” There is a mobile app website to help with discoveries, to follow the route and learn more.

“From Aug. 15, 1824 to Sept. 7, 1825 the Marquis de Lafayette, the famous French General who played a pivotal role in the American Revolution, traveled across all 24 of the United States in celebration of nearly 50 years since victory over the British at Yorktown, Virginia…” – from The Lafayette Trail web site. Here are 27 Reasons Why We Should Honor Lafayette via the The American Friends of Lafayette web site.

Yes, made a trip to revisit the river port area and the landing, once a wild tangle of overgrown briars with a rickety pier – now a pretty small public park. River Road skirts the river, north to south; offers scenic views, including Arrigoni Bridge (which of course wasn't there when Lafayette made his journey). There are public areas to park, walk, bike, picnic (in suitable weather). Off the beaten path, the area is a treasure.

“'We want people to get in their car and travel the trail using my website to know what he did,' said Icher, who has been living in New Hampshire and hails from Carcassonne in southern France.” – Story reported by Scott Beveridge
of the Observer-Reporter of Washington, Pennsylvania, via Twitter.

“The Lafayette Trail is sponsored by the American Friends of Lafayette, a nonprofit 501(c)(3) organization, in partnership with the Consulate General of France in Boston, the company Global DMC Partners, and the French Foreign Trade Advisors.” – The Lafayette Trail Facebook page, which features links to news and recent stories, including reports by The Baltimore Sun, and The Post and Courier.

“In comparison with the population of Hartford, a greater portion of his revolutionary companions were here presented to him than in any place he had visited…” – from the Memoirs of General Lafayette With An Account of His Visit to America

Or take the time to go see an area once described thus: “By the beginning of the 19th century, the Upper Houses river port area had become a thriving, albeit small-scale, seaport. It was the center of Upper Middletown, and teemed with commercial enterprises and activity on the riverbanks. New streets had been developed from the original 17th century nucleated settlement.

“Wall Street (Freestone Avenue) had been laid probably early in the eighteenth century. By 1795 River Road was extended from South Street to Wall Street and further north, providing greater access to the wharves and warehouses there. School Street was laid out in 1803.”

“The area is isolated by meadows to north and south and has ‘its back to' Main Street on the west. The river boundary on the east includes the sites of wharves and shipyards which may be of archeological importance. The Upper Houses River Port District is a distinctive and cohesive unit, in part because of its isolating boundaries, and in part because it was largely bypassed by later development. It is an important example of a Connecticut River town in its early phases of development.”

Note: For the story about the turtle and the Lafayette sculptor, visit www.ct.gov/kids.

Next, about a visit to Hartford and more about the Connecticut River – and an airport.